{"id":63517,"date":"2012-09-10T15:13:58","date_gmt":"2012-09-10T14:13:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.visit-ulcinj.com\/blog\/?p=63517"},"modified":"2012-09-10T15:13:58","modified_gmt":"2012-09-10T14:13:58","slug":"monika-stafa-ne-malin-e-zi-ne-vendin-e-manastireve","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.visit-ulcinj.com\/blog\/2012\/09\/10\/monika-stafa-ne-malin-e-zi-ne-vendin-e-manastireve\/","title":{"rendered":"Monika Stafa: N\u00eb MALIN E ZI \u2013 N\u00eb vendin e manastireve"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Nj\u00eb rr\u00ebfenj\u00eb e mir\u00ebnjohur malazeze b\u00ebn fjal\u00eb p\u00ebr optimizmin e krajl Nikoll\u00ebs, mbretit t\u00eb fundm\u00eb t\u00eb Malit t\u00eb Zi, para se t\u00eb g\u00eblltitej n\u00eb Jugosllavin\u00eb e par\u00eb, brenda s\u00eb cil\u00ebs humbi dhe emrin: Sa t\u00eb ket\u00eb bjeshk\u00eb dhe dhi, ky vend nuk do t\u00eb mposhtet! Si t\u00eb gjitha rr\u00ebfenjat, edhe ajo e krajl Nikoll\u00ebs, nuk ka pasur nevoj\u00eb t\u00eb argumentohet.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cMali i Zi dhe Malet\u201d, si\u00e7 quhej dikur n\u00eb histori, rron prej maleve. Kjo t\u00eb vjen n\u00eb mendje duke p\u00ebrshkuar bregdetin e Malit t\u00eb Zi, prej Ulqinit me em\u00ebr ilir deri n\u00eb Hercegnov me em\u00ebr kelto-gjermanik (\u201cherceg\u201d n\u00eb gjuh\u00ebn e burimit do t\u00eb thot\u00eb \u201cprij\u00ebs\u201d, \u201ckomandant\u201d), gjithnj\u00eb t\u00eb shoq\u00ebron ky mendim.<\/p>\n

Pse ky mit malesh n\u00eb vendin q\u00eb edhe emrin e ka t\u00eb lidhur me malin, qoft\u00eb ky dhe nj\u00eb \u201cmal i zi\u201d, nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb q\u00eb bregdeti, \u201cPrimorje\u201d, si\u00e7 i thon\u00eb vend\u00ebsit, me Sveti Stevan-in dhe me Boka Kotorska-n, mund t\u00eb ishte mburrja e \u00e7do vendi dhe populli. N\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb, duke shijuar val\u00ebvitjen e peizazhit, q\u00eb t\u00eb b\u00ebn t\u00eb mendosh se po t\u00eb del si nj\u00eb shfaqje natyrore para teje, djall\u00ebzisht mund t\u00eb t\u00eb shkoj\u00eb n\u00eb mendje se ndoshta mali dhe deti k\u00ebtu nuk jan\u00eb par\u00eb dhe aq miq\u00ebsisht me nj\u00ebri-tjetrin. Lavdia e historis\u00eb, m\u00eb shum\u00eb se shija e s\u00eb bukur\u00ebs, e ka z\u00ebn\u00eb t\u00eb parin vend n\u00eb jet\u00ebn e popullit. Dhe kjo vjen e t\u00eb p\u00ebrforcohet duke pyetur vend\u00ebsit se \u00e7far\u00eb mitizon himni i k\u00ebtij vendi, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb krijuar disa vite, di\u00e7ka m\u00eb shum\u00eb se nj\u00eb dekad\u00eb m\u00eb par\u00eb. Ashtu si shqiptar\u00ebt, ndoshta si n\u00eb \u00e7do popull tjet\u00ebr, edhe malazez\u00ebt ngat\u00ebrrohen kur vjen puna p\u00ebr himnin. Prit: \u201cOj svijetla majska zoro; Majko na\u0161a Crna Goro\u201d: \u201cO agim i ndritsh\u00ebm i majit \/ Cerna Gora n\u00ebna jon\u00eb\u201d. Pastaj si vazhdon? pyet t\u00eb bij\u00ebn e zonja e sht\u00ebpis\u00eb ku jemi vendosur p\u00ebr t\u00eb kaluar pushimet. Mua m\u00eb pyet? Kur s\u2019e di ti, si do ta mbaj mend un\u00eb? Ato k\u00ebmbejn\u00eb jo fjal\u00eb, por vargje me nj\u00ebra-tjetr\u00ebn, derisa mua m\u00eb duket se e kam gjetur \u00e7el\u00ebsin e asaj q\u00eb po k\u00ebrkoj: \u201cVolimo vas, brda tvrda\u201d \u2013 t\u00eb duam ty dhe malet e fort\u00eb, i thon\u00eb malazez\u00ebt vendit t\u00eb tyre. Dhe m\u00eb tej vazhdon: \u201cNe jemi bij t\u00eb shk\u00ebmbinjve t\u00eb tu\u201d. Duket sikur \u201cPrimorje\u201d dhe \u201cCrna Gora\u201d jan\u00eb dy gj\u00ebra gati t\u00eb ndryshme. Malet m\u00ebnjan\u00eb dhe bregdeti me bukurin\u00eb e vet mahnit\u00ebse n\u00eb an\u00ebn tjet\u00ebr; krenaria e historis\u00eb q\u00eb bu\u00e7et brenda himnit dhe t\u00ebrheqja e turist\u00ebve p\u00ebr vij\u00ebn bregdetare.<\/p>\n

Me \u201cJet\u00ebn e Mikelanxhelos\u201d e dy-tre libra t\u00eb tjer\u00eb p\u00ebr mitologjit\u00eb e popujve t\u00eb Europ\u00ebs n\u00eb duar nisin pushimet e mia n\u00eb vendin fqinj n\u00eb veriper\u00ebndim. Natyra dhe historia t\u00eb parakalojn\u00eb duke t\u00eb sjell\u00eb nd\u00ebrmend se ndoshta pik\u00ebrisht kjo ka qen\u00eb zgjidhja m\u00eb e drejt\u00eb: shpirti i Renesanc\u00ebs, fryma e krishterimit, vendi i manastireve, bregdeti q\u00eb p\u00ebrthyhet me gjire dhe ishuj modest\u00eb n\u00eb m\u00ebnjan\u00ebsin\u00eb e tyre, t\u00eb presin gjithandej. Diku n\u00eb t\u00eb majt\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb dhe manastiri i Rotacit, ku thuhet se \u00ebsht\u00eb shtypur libri i par\u00eb shqip. Shum\u00eb manastire t\u00eb t\u00eb krishter\u00ebve roman\u00eb kan\u00eb vet\u00ebm emrat tashm\u00eb, qoft\u00eb n\u00eb bregdet, qoft\u00eb n\u00eb thell\u00ebsi. Manastiret, kishat, katedralet e tyre ose jan\u00eb rr\u00ebnuar, ose jan\u00eb kthyer n\u00eb ritin pravosllav, si\u00e7 ka ndodhur n\u00eb Kosov\u00eb. N\u00eb at\u00eb Kosov\u00eb q\u00eb Jugosllavia e dyt\u00eb, nj\u00eb shtet ateist, megjithat\u00eb vendosi ta mbiquante \u201cMetohi\u201d q\u00eb n\u00eb gjuh\u00ebn greke do t\u00eb thot\u00eb \u201cmanastir\u201d: tok\u00eb e manastireve. N\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb, Mali i Zi \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb tok\u00eb manastiresh, n\u00eb tok\u00eb dhe n\u00eb det.<\/p>\n

Librat p\u00ebr mitet m\u00eb sjellin nd\u00ebrmend fakte parahistorik\u00eb, q\u00eb b\u00ebjn\u00eb fjal\u00eb p\u00ebr zanafill\u00eb popujsh, qytetesh, mjesht\u00ebrish. Prej Budv\u00ebs deri n\u00eb Cavtat sundon edhe sot miti i Cadmos-it, i cili konsiderohet prej shkenc\u00ebtar\u00ebve si prius parens i ilir\u00ebve. Cadmos-i, nj\u00ebri prej djemve t\u00eb hyjnesh\u00ebs Europ\u00eb, s\u00eb bashku me gruan e vet, Harmonia, u d\u00ebbua prej Teb\u00ebs dhe u vendos n\u00eb k\u00ebto an\u00eb. Nga dy djemt\u00eb e Harmonis\u00eb lindi qyteti i Durr\u00ebsit, qytet me origjin\u00eb muzike, tingujsh jet\u00ebdh\u00ebn\u00ebs. Ilir\u00ebt \u201cfili serpentis sunt\u201d, shkruante tre shekuj m\u00eb par\u00eb Farlati, dhe gjarpri ishte totemi i tyre, gjarpri q\u00eb vinte nga Cadmos-i rebelues ndaj hyjve m\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb.<\/p>\n

Mali i Zi \u00ebsht\u00eb shteti m\u00eb i vog\u00ebl i Ballkaneve, dhe t\u2019i mund t\u00eb mendosh se pas disa viteve me radh\u00eb q\u00eb e viziton nuk ke \u00e7\u2019t\u00eb zbulosh m\u00eb. Tekefundit, prej ishullit t\u00eb Sh\u00ebn Jozefit n\u00eb delt\u00ebn e Bun\u00ebs deri n\u00eb Hercegnov nuk jan\u00eb m\u00eb shum\u00eb se 150 kilometra larg\u00ebsi. Qytetet e vjetra me emra ilir\u00eb, si Ulqini, Risani e Perasti; me emra latin\u00eb si Antibari (Tivari, Bari), Budva (Budua) e Kotorri, me sllav\u00eb e gjermanik\u00eb, ndjekin nj\u00ebri-tjetrin si nj\u00eb rresht yj\u00ebsish llamburit\u00ebse, q\u00eb t\u00eb shfaqen k\u00ebndsh\u00ebm kreu i t\u00eb dytit pa mbaruar fundi i t\u00eb parit. N\u00ebse mendon se duke e l\u00ebn\u00eb qytetin e Tivarit n\u00eb jug p\u00ebr shkak t\u00eb udh\u00ebtimit m\u00eb n\u00eb veri tani s\u2019ke \u00e7\u2019pret m\u00eb t\u00eb papritur n\u00eb natyr\u00eb e n\u00eb kultur\u00eb, sigurisht se ky \u00ebsht\u00eb gabim. Pik\u00ebrisht at\u00ebher\u00eb kur t\u00eb duket se, bashk\u00eb me bazilik\u00ebn ilirike n\u00eb qend\u00ebr t\u00eb qytetit dhe portin gjith\u00eb dinamiz\u00ebm, vendos t\u00eb lidh\u00ebsh rripin duke menduar se do t\u00eb udh\u00ebtosh gjat\u00eb, ja ku shfaqet tabela me emrin \u201cOlea europea\u201d, ulliri europian, q\u00eb t\u00eb orienton drejt nj\u00eb peme muzeore, e shpallur monument natyror nga UNESCO. Ky ulli ka mbi dymij\u00eb vjet q\u00eb prodhon p\u00ebr njer\u00ebzin\u00eb. Asnj\u00eb fabrik\u00eb moderne nuk mund t\u00eb krahasohet me t\u00eb. Shqiptar\u00ebt mburren duke th\u00ebn\u00eb se ky ulli i ka par\u00eb dhe i ka njohur ilir\u00ebt. Malazez\u00ebt mjaftohen me bilet\u00ebn prej tre eurosh dhe me kujdesin q\u00eb askush t\u00eb mos hyj\u00eb brenda rrethit dhe t\u00eb cenoj\u00eb sh\u00ebndetin e pem\u00ebs s\u00eb bekuar. M\u00eb tej vijn\u00eb Budva me fortes\u00ebn veneciane dhe me rrugicat tipike per\u00ebndimore, ku njer\u00ebzit mund t\u00eb shk\u00ebmbejn\u00eb gj\u00ebrat q\u00eb u duhen mbi kryet e udh\u00ebtar\u00ebve kalimtar\u00eb si n\u00eb filmat neorealist\u00eb italian\u00eb. Dhe m\u00eb tej Kotorri, nj\u00eb xhevahir i fshehur apo nj\u00eb dhunti e natyr\u00ebs p\u00ebr t\u00eb fshehur t\u00eb rrezikuarit, si\u00e7 pati ndodhur dy mij\u00eb vjet m\u00eb par\u00eb me mbret\u00ebresh\u00ebn ilire Teut\u00eb: mozaiku me portretin e saj, ku artisti nuk ka hezituar t\u00eb spikas\u00eb jo aq skeptrin e nj\u00eb mbret\u00ebreshe, por bukurin\u00eb fem\u00ebrore, aq sa t\u00eb t\u00eb duket m\u00eb shum\u00eb si Hypnosi, v\u00ebllai i \u00ebndrr\u00ebs, shpres\u00ebs dhe dashuris\u00eb.<\/p>\n

Kotorri gjithashtu \u00ebsht\u00eb listuar n\u00eb pasurit\u00eb natyrore dhe historike n\u00ebn mbrojtjen e UNESCO-s: deti me gjiret e tij, q\u00eb tani i l\u00eb m\u00ebnjan\u00eb trageti; lasht\u00ebsia me Risanin, Perastin e Cavtatin dhe mozaik\u00ebt e k\u00ebshtjellat e tyre historike; njer\u00ebzit, me but\u00ebsin\u00eb e tyre krejt t\u00eb p\u00ebrkund\u00ebrt me sa u thuhet nx\u00ebn\u00ebsve n\u00eb librat shkollor\u00eb. Boka Kotorska \u00ebsht\u00eb ndoshta pjesa e vetme e Bregdetit malazez, Primorjes, q\u00eb vend\u00ebsit e ve\u00e7ojn\u00eb me dashuri. Sepse atje ku nis ideja shtet\u00ebrore malazeze, n\u00eb lart\u00ebsin\u00eb e njohur Lov\u0107en, ku ndodhet mauzoleu i Njego\u0161i\u0107-\u00ebve, Boka Kotorsa shihet e admirohet si nj\u00eb diamant n\u00eb trupin e tok\u00ebs. Dhe k\u00ebshtu, si\u00e7 thuhet n\u00eb himnin malazez: \u201cnga Lov\u0107en-i i djepit t\u00eb mendimit malazias, bashkimi yn\u00eb merr krah\u00eb, lumenjt\u00eb tan\u00eb marrin udh\u00eb, p\u00ebr t\u2019u derdhur n\u00eb dy dete dhe p\u00ebr t\u2019i thirrur oqeanit: Mali i Zi do rroj\u00eb p\u00ebrjet\u00eb\u201d: \u201cDok lov\u0107enskoj na\u0161oj misli \/ Na\u0161a sloga daje krila \/Rijeka \u0107e na\u0161ih valvala Uska\u010du\u0107i u dva mora \/ Glas nositi okeanu \/ Da je vje\u010dna Crna Gora!\u201d Kush di ta \u00e7moj\u00eb natyr\u00ebn, me siguri u jep t\u00eb drejt\u00eb vend\u00ebsve q\u00eb detin e shohin p\u00ebrmes Kotorrit: si nj\u00eb v\u00ebth diamanti q\u00eb stolis trupin e im\u00ebt t\u00eb shtetit t\u00eb tyre.<\/p>\n

Por bregdeti malazez nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb vet\u00ebm i k\u00ebsaj nd\u00ebrthurjeje prej labirinthi t\u00eb tok\u00ebs me detin. Gjithnj\u00eb kisha menduar se ishujt i takojn\u00eb m\u00eb s\u00eb shumti pjes\u00ebs dinarike, p\u00ebrmbi Dubrovnik e lart. Mir\u00ebpo n\u00ebse b\u00ebhesh pak i v\u00ebmendsh\u00ebm, at\u00ebher\u00eb af\u00ebr e larg toka t\u00eb shfaqet n\u00eb form\u00ebn e ishujve shk\u00ebmbor\u00eb qysh n\u00eb Ulqin, ku disa dhjet\u00ebra metra det, jo m\u00eb shum\u00eb, ndajn\u00eb at\u00eb q\u00eb quhet \u201cqyteti i vjet\u00ebr\u201d, ku n\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb nuk ka m\u00eb gjurm\u00eb, prej k\u00ebmb\u00ebve t\u00eb tok\u00ebs. Mali i Zi qenka i pasur n\u00eb ishuj jo vet\u00ebm n\u00eb Primorje, por edhe n\u00eb an\u00ebn tjet\u00ebr, n\u00eb bregun e liqenit t\u00eb Shkodr\u00ebs. Thuajse q\u00eb t\u00eb gjith\u00eb jan\u00eb ishuj manastire: n\u00eb ishullin me emrin \u201cGrmo\u017eur\u201d gjendet manastiri i Star\u010devos-s, m\u00eb n\u00eb veri \u00ebsht\u00eb manastiri me emrin Be\u0161ko; q\u00eb t\u00eb sjell n\u00eb mendje form\u00ebn malazeze t\u00eb emrit t\u00eb Vjen\u00ebs (Be\u0107); pastaj manastiri i Sveti Nikola-s dhe m\u00eb tej ai i Komit. Disa jan\u00eb manastire vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr asket\u00eb, kryesisht p\u00ebr murgj e murgesha. T\u00eb gjith\u00eb gjenden n\u00eb liqenin e Shkodr\u00ebs. Kisha pravosllave kujdeset t\u2019u d\u00ebrgoj\u00eb nj\u00eb her\u00eb n\u00eb dy jav\u00eb uj\u00eb t\u00eb pijsh\u00ebm dhe ushqimet m\u00eb t\u00eb domosdoshme. Ata jetojn\u00eb si n\u00eb nj\u00eb t\u00eb shkuar t\u00eb thell\u00eb, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb dhe m\u00eb e thell\u00eb se ajo e heronjve epik\u00eb shqiptar\u00eb. N\u00eb vetmi, ndonj\u00ebher\u00eb n\u00eb m\u00eb pak se nj\u00eb kilomet\u00ebr katror vend, aq sa \u00ebsht\u00eb sip\u00ebrfaqja e ishujve, ata ia kushtojn\u00eb jet\u00ebn e tyre devocionit dhe nuk vuajn\u00eb shpirt\u00ebrisht. Gjith\u00e7ka \u00ebsht\u00eb e lidhur me \u201cAt\u00eb atje lart\u201d. Nuk duan t\u2019ia din\u00eb n\u00ebse kisha malazeze apo kisha serbe kujtohet ndonj\u00eb dit\u00eb p\u00ebr ta. Nuk duan t\u2019ia din\u00eb se Mali i Zi, ashtu si ka popullsin\u00eb, me orientim serb a me orientim nga vetvetja, ka dhe kish\u00ebn: nj\u00ebr\u00ebn q\u00eb e ka shpallur veten t\u00eb pavarur nga patrikana e Beogradit dhe tjetr\u00ebn, q\u00eb njeh var\u00ebsin\u00eb e saj. Sa shum\u00eb ngjajn\u00eb popujt \u201carmiq\u201d t\u00eb Ballkanit! Popuj q\u00eb duelet i b\u00ebnin mes tyre, ashtu si europian\u00ebt deri n\u00eb shekullin e 18-t\u00eb, por \u00e7ikat ia rr\u00ebmbenin nj\u00ebri-tjetrit gjithashtu, t\u00eb dalldisur prej bukuris\u00eb s\u00eb tyre, ashtu si Halili i k\u00ebng\u00ebve shqiptare heroike, q\u00eb ndoshta nuk do t\u00eb kujtohej kurr\u00eb p\u00ebr martes\u00eb po t\u00eb mos ishte urdhri i v\u00ebllait t\u00eb madh. I pari dilte n\u00eb krajli me \u00e7etue, i dyti p\u00ebr vajza t\u00eb bukura.<\/p>\n

E till\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb edhe faqja bregdetare, jo vet\u00ebm ajo liqenore, e Malit t\u00eb Zi. Manastire n\u00eb ishuj, manastire n\u00eb mal. N\u00eb nj\u00ebr\u00ebn an\u00eb ishulli i manastirit t\u00eb Zoj\u00ebs son\u00eb Sh\u00ebn M\u00ebri t\u00eb Shk\u00ebmbinjve (\u201cIsland of Our Lady of Rock\u201d shenjohet n\u00eb hartat turistike), n\u00eb an\u00ebn tjet\u00ebr shk\u00ebmbi i Podmaines, n\u00eb shpin\u00eb t\u00eb Budv\u00ebs, nd\u00ebrtuar gjithashtu n\u00eb emrin e Fjetjes s\u00eb Sh\u00ebn M\u00ebris\u00eb s\u00eb Lumnueme (\u201c\u0423\u0441\u043f\u0435\u045a\u0430 \u041f\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0432\u0435\u0442\u0435 \u0411\u043e\u0433\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434\u0438\u0446\u0435\u201d). N\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb manastir ka jetuar p\u00ebr disa koh\u00eb dhe vlladika Nego\u0161, njeriu q\u00eb shenjon identitetin e malazez\u00ebve. Vlladika ishte mitropolit dhe sundimtar, ashtu si Fan Noli i shqiptar\u00ebve: arkipeshkop dhe Kryeminist\u00ebr! \u201cZoja jon\u00eb Sh\u00ebn M\u00ebri e Shk\u00ebmbit\u201d t\u00eb sjell nd\u00ebrmend \u201cZoj\u00ebn e K\u00ebshill\u00ebs s\u00eb Mir\u00eb\u201d, protektore e Shkodr\u00ebs, p\u00ebr t\u00eb cil\u00ebn thuhet se ekziston nj\u00eb ikon\u00eb shum\u00eb e bukur, q\u00eb m\u00ebrgoi n\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb misterioze bashk\u00eb me t\u00eb krishter\u00ebt fisnik\u00eb n\u00eb shekullin e pushtimit osman. Manastirin e ka dekoruar nj\u00eb piktor i mir\u00ebnjohur n\u00eb Malin e Zi dhe n\u00eb gjith\u00eb faqen bregdetare dalmatine: Tripo Kokolja. Vend\u00ebsit e quajn\u00eb me krenari \u201cMikelanxhelo crnogorskij\u201d, dhe kan\u00eb t\u00eb drejt\u00eb. Pikturat e tij i takojn\u00eb shekullit t\u00eb 17-t\u00eb, kur stili venecian i kultur\u00ebs sundonte jo vet\u00ebm bot\u00ebn e krishter\u00eb, por edhe Islamin. Pik\u00ebrisht n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb koh\u00eb Et\u2019hem beu do t\u00eb ftonte nj\u00eb disenjator venecian p\u00ebr t\u00eb pikturuar arabeskat q\u00eb ka edhe sot xhamia m\u00eb e vjet\u00ebr e Tiran\u00ebs, ose themeluesja e kryeqytetit t\u00eb sot\u00ebm, p\u00ebrball\u00eb Bibliotek\u00ebs Komb\u00ebtare. Piktori malazez nuk e ka fshehur formimin e tij venecian. Dhe kjo duket jo vet\u00ebm n\u00eb ikonografi e piktur\u00ebn murale, por edhe n\u00eb tavanet e manastirit dhe t\u00eb kishave brenda tij. Dhe nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb vet\u00ebm Tripo Kokolja nj\u00eb shartues i stilit per\u00ebndimor venecian me stilin lindor pravosllav. Ky \u00ebsht\u00eb privilegji i t\u00eb qen\u00ebt p\u00ebrball\u00eb pasqyr\u00ebs s\u00eb detit.<\/p>\n

Ostrogu \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr em\u00ebr shum\u00eb i p\u00ebrhapur manastiresh n\u00eb Malin e Zi. Edhe n\u00eb bregdet ka nj\u00eb t\u00eb till\u00eb, sido q\u00eb m\u00eb i shquari \u00ebsht\u00eb ai q\u00eb gjendet n\u00eb hinterland, dhe q\u00eb mban emrin e Sh\u00ebn Vasilit t\u00eb Ostrogut, Sveti Vasili Ostrogorski Ostroumni \u2013 Sh\u00ebn Vasili i Ostrogut, mendjemprehtit. Po dhe t\u00eb magjishmit. N\u00eb manastirin e Ostrogut shkojn\u00eb besimtar\u00eb e dyshimtar\u00eb, studiues e ateist\u00eb, vend\u00ebs e t\u00eb huaj. Gjithkund ka nj\u00eb mjesht\u00ebr q\u00eb ka dekoruar mjediset dhe k\u00ebtu thuhet se mjeshtri quhej Radul. N\u00eb nj\u00eb rast tjet\u00ebr mjeshtri cil\u00ebsohet \u201cigumani Rafael\u201d dhe mua s\u00ebrish m\u00eb vjen n\u00eb mendje Renesanca dhe fryma e saj. P\u00ebr Sveti Nikola-n t\u00eb shpjegojn\u00eb se kulti i tij u lart\u00ebsua nga viti 1489, q\u00eb dihet se \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb vit i shenjuar, meq\u00eb pik\u00ebrisht at\u00ebher\u00eb shp\u00ebrtheu dhe n\u00eb Portugali inkuizicioni i Isabel\u00ebs mbret\u00ebresh\u00eb. Murgjit q\u00eb e themeluan k\u00ebt\u00eb manastir erdh\u00ebn q\u00eb andej. Megjith\u00ebse pak flasin, urdhri q\u00eb i takonte ky grup murgjish nuk shpjegohet mir\u00eb. Ndoshta ishte dhe nj\u00eb urdh\u00ebr jo ordinar. Nj\u00eb shenjt tjet\u00ebr t\u00eb cilit i luten malazez\u00ebt \u00ebsht\u00eb Sveti Petak, Sh\u00ebn Prendi; p\u00ebr dallim prej shqiptar\u00ebve, t\u00eb cil\u00ebt kan\u00eb kultin e Shna Prend\u00ebs, Sh\u00ebn e Premtes; si t\u00eb thuash e kan\u00eb fem\u00ebrorizuar kultin, ose malazez\u00ebt kan\u00eb b\u00ebr\u00eb t\u00eb kund\u00ebrt\u00ebn, e kan\u00eb mashkullorizuar.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb manastirin e Podmaines zbukurimet lidhen me emrin e nj\u00eb malazezi nga Risani, Rafael Dimitrijevi\u0107. Podmaine \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb muze i gjall\u00eb i jet\u00ebs s\u00eb m\u00ebhershme njer\u00ebzore. K\u00ebtu gjith\u00e7ka b\u00ebhet me dor\u00eb: buka, vera, veshjet, er\u00ebzat, por jo p\u00ebr ndonj\u00eb mod\u00eb europiane. B\u00ebhet k\u00ebshtu p\u00ebr dedikim ndaj asaj q\u00eb \u201cashtu e ka dh\u00ebn\u00eb Zoti\u201d \u2013 Bog dao tako! Njeriut mund t\u2019i duket se k\u00ebshtu ka hyr\u00eb n\u00eb nj\u00eb bot\u00eb magjike romantike, n\u00eb nj\u00eb muze t\u00eb virtytit t\u00eb lasht\u00eb, por motrat murgesha nuk t\u00eb l\u00ebn\u00eb dyshime: jo, e till\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb jeta e v\u00ebrtet\u00eb, k\u00ebshtu jetohet jo p\u00ebr romanc\u00eb, por p\u00ebr dinjitet.<\/p>\n

Malin e Zi mund ta kuptosh disi pa detin, q\u00eb, tek e mbramja, p\u00ebr nj\u00eb koh\u00eb t\u00eb gjat\u00eb ishte n\u00ebn sundimin e \u201cMleta\u0107ka Republika-s\u201d, si\u00e7 i thon\u00eb vend\u00ebsit Sinjoris\u00eb s\u00eb Venecias. Mund ta kuptosh edhe pa lasht\u00ebsin\u00eb. Por nuk mund ta kuptosh kurr\u00eb pa Nego\u0161i\u0107-\u00ebt. Ashtu sikurse nuk mund ta kuptosh pa malet. Madje dhe pa malet me festa tradicionale shqiptare. Nj\u00eb prej sherreve q\u00eb shqiptar\u00ebt sot nuk druhen ta b\u00ebjn\u00eb me fqinj\u00ebt e tyre bashk\u00ebshtetas \u00ebsht\u00eb ai p\u00ebr at\u00eb q\u00eb e quajn\u00eb Rumia Sacra, fest\u00ebn e malit t\u00eb Rumijes. P\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb mal, shqiptar\u00ebt kan\u00eb k\u00ebng\u00eb dhe valle t\u00eb mir\u00ebnjohura: \u201cMoj Rumije, bjeshk\u00eb e nalt\u00eb \/ Ti sa qofsh ma e nalt\u00eb u bafsh!\u201d. N\u00eb nj\u00eb dit\u00eb t\u00eb vitit n\u00eb maj\u00ebn e Rumijes b\u00ebhet pelegrinash, si n\u00eb Gjalic\u00eb a n\u00eb Tomor. Dhe njer\u00ebzit duhet t\u00eb marrin nj\u00eb gur me vete p\u00ebr t\u2019ia dedikuar maj\u00ebs s\u00eb malit, se ashtu thot\u00eb k\u00ebnga: \u201cma e nalt\u00eb u bafsh\u201d, \u201ce ma e nalt\u00eb s\u2019ka si me u ba po nuk ia \u00e7ove nji gur n\u00eb maj\u00eb\u201d, na shpjegojn\u00eb shqiptar\u00ebt q\u00eb takojm\u00eb. Mir\u00ebpo, disa vite m\u00eb par\u00eb kisha pravosllave e Malit t\u00eb Zi zbriti prej helikopteri nj\u00eb kish\u00eb t\u00eb gatshme dhe e montoi n\u00eb maj\u00eb t\u00eb Rumijes. Nj\u00eb \u201cdeus ex machina\u201d moderne. Rumija ishte nj\u00eb tempull dhe u b\u00eb kish\u00eb. Dhe prej asaj kohe t\u00eb dyja pal\u00ebt thon\u00eb se kan\u00eb t\u00eb drejt\u00eb. Dhe n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb pik\u00eb prap\u00eb ballkanasit dalin t\u00eb ngjash\u00ebm m\u00eb shum\u00eb se t\u00eb ndrysh\u00ebm. Sepse n\u00eb nj\u00eb vend me besim doktrinar nuk mund t\u00eb kthehet nj\u00eb faltore pagane n\u00eb faltore krishterimi dhe anasjelltas. Por n\u00eb k\u00ebto raste nuk ka shum\u00eb r\u00ebnd\u00ebsi \u00e7\u2019ka qen\u00eb, r\u00ebnd\u00ebsi ka kush e ka. Dhe kjo ka ndodhur shum\u00eb shpesh me faltoret shqiptare, q\u00eb i kan\u00eb jetuar t\u00eb gjitha format: nd\u00ebrtesa prandorake (bazilika, nga \u201cbasileus\u201d), kisha paleokristiane, kisha rregulltare, xhami, depo mallrash, s\u00ebrish kisha, s\u00ebrish debate n\u00ebse duhet t\u00eb p\u00ebrfillet dhe fakti q\u00eb kan\u00eb qen\u00eb xhami.<\/p>\n

Shum\u00eb e qart\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb p\u00ebr mua pas gjith\u00eb k\u00ebtyre vizitash e meditimesh n\u00ebp\u00ebr kishat dhe manastiret malazeze: ky \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb popull q\u00eb rron prej faltoreve, gjen prehje dhe paqe duke kuvenduar me veten dhe me hyjt\u00eb n\u00ebp\u00ebr to; i ruan faltoret dhe po ia dol\u00ebn ua marrin dhe t\u00eb tjer\u00ebt, kurse ato t\u00eb shqiptar\u00ebve, t\u00eb shqiptar\u00ebve katolik\u00eb, zor se mund t\u2019i gjesh m\u00eb kund, p\u00ebrve\u00e7se n\u00eb relacionet e prelat\u00ebve, vizitator\u00ebve apostolik\u00eb, ipeshkvinjve. Nj\u00eb Zmajevi\u0107 ishte ai q\u00eb autorizoi \u201cMikelanxhelon crnogorsog\u201d t\u00eb zbukuronte manastiret e Primorjes, dhe ato jan\u00eb aty si dikur. Kurse kisha e M\u00ebrqis\u00eb, ku u mbajt kuvendi i Arbnit, jo shum\u00eb vite m\u00eb von\u00eb, m\u00eb shum\u00eb ngjan nj\u00eb toponim. Dhe k\u00ebshtu pastaj vjen pyetja: \u00ebsht\u00eb mir\u00eb apo \u00ebsht\u00eb keq t\u00eb sillesh n\u00eb nj\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb laike, shekullare, ndoshta deri-diku pagane, pa p\u00ebrjashtuar dhe sjelljen profane, me nd\u00ebrtesat e kultit t\u00eb vendit?!<\/p>\n

T\u00eb b\u00ebsh pushimet n\u00eb nj\u00eb vend tjet\u00ebr do t\u00eb thot\u00eb ta zbulosh nga nj\u00eb pamje tjet\u00ebr at\u00eb vend. N\u00eb bregdetin e Malit t\u00eb Zi turist\u00ebt k\u00ebt\u00eb zgjedhje kan\u00eb b\u00ebr\u00eb. Shum\u00eb prej tyre, me \u00e7anta dhe \u00e7adra portative, i bien vendit brenda dy jav\u00ebsh fund e krye. Malazez\u00ebt vet\u00eb e tregojn\u00eb pa druajtje anekdot\u00ebn e nj\u00eb kinezi, i cili, pasi e kishte vizituar gati gjith\u00eb vendin e tyre p\u00ebr nj\u00eb dit\u00eb t\u00eb vetme, n\u00eb fund pyeti se ku mund t\u00eb ishte pallati ku jetonin k\u00ebta njer\u00ebz. Ata nuk e kan\u00eb kompleksin e p\u00ebrunj\u00ebsis\u00eb, b\u00ebjn\u00eb humor me veten dhe me tjetrin, e din\u00eb se nj\u00eb popull nuk matet nga numri dhe nga sip\u00ebrfaqja e vendit, por nga origjinaliteti dhe identiteti i tij. Dhe n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb pik\u00eb, Mali i Zi \u00ebsht\u00eb me fat. Sepse identitetin historik ia ka vulosur koha. Tri Jugosllavit\u00eb, brenda t\u00eb cilave qe i detyruar t\u00eb fuste kok\u00ebn, prej vitit 1918 deri n\u00eb fillimin e shekullit t\u00eb 20-t\u00eb, Malit t\u00eb Zi nuk i soll\u00ebn ndonj\u00eb t\u00eb mir\u00eb. P\u00ebrkundrazi, at\u00ebher\u00eb ndihej ngusht\u00eb, n\u00ebn sqetull\u00ebn e dikujt tjet\u00ebr, e tani shijon lirin\u00eb, bashk\u00eb me shqiptar\u00ebt, q\u00eb, megjithat\u00eb, ruajn\u00eb pak\u00ebnaq\u00ebsin\u00eb e tyre: p\u00ebr flamurin, p\u00ebr shkollimin, hera-her\u00ebs dhe p\u00ebr numrin q\u00eb p\u00ebrfaq\u00ebsojn\u00eb zyrtarisht brenda shtetit t\u00eb tyre.<\/p>\n

Gazeta Shqip<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nj\u00eb rr\u00ebfenj\u00eb e mir\u00ebnjohur malazeze b\u00ebn fjal\u00eb p\u00ebr optimizmin e krajl Nikoll\u00ebs, mbretit t\u00eb fundm\u00eb t\u00eb Malit t\u00eb Zi, para se t\u00eb g\u00eblltitej n\u00eb Jugosllavin\u00eb e par\u00eb, brenda s\u00eb cil\u00ebs humbi dhe emrin: Sa t\u00eb ket\u00eb bjeshk\u00eb dhe dhi, ky vend nuk do t\u00eb mposhtet! Si t\u00eb gjitha rr\u00ebfenjat, edhe ajo e krajl Nikoll\u00ebs, nuk […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[6950],"tags":[3497],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nMonika Stafa: N\u00eb MALIN E ZI \u2013 N\u00eb vendin e manastireve - Lajme nga Ulqini<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nj\u00eb rr\u00ebfenj\u00eb e mir\u00ebnjohur malazeze b\u00ebn fjal\u00eb p\u00ebr optimizmin e krajl Nikoll\u00ebs, mbretit t\u00eb fundm\u00eb t\u00eb Malit t\u00eb Zi, para se t\u00eb g\u00eblltitej n\u00eb Jugosllavin\u00eb e\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.visit-ulcinj.com\/blog\/2012\/09\/10\/monika-stafa-ne-malin-e-zi-ne-vendin-e-manastireve\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Monika Stafa: N\u00eb MALIN E ZI \u2013 N\u00eb vendin e manastireve - 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